Hot buns full of heresy

Last year's holy buns (photo by Fiona Beckett)


This year's hot cross loaf (the buns were all snaffled up before photos could be taken)

Being of Norwegian-Irish-Scottish-Jewish-Lithuanian-German extraction I've stopped crossing my buns.

What inspired such subversive behaviour in the week leading to Easter? Misplacing my piping bags. And out of sheer laziness I decided to forego making my own piping bag from silicone paper and just skipped the wobbly white crosses altogether this year. Not Cross Buns taste just the same as Hot Cross Buns, and come to think of it a pinch of heretical cardamom made its way into this spiced spelt dough. Hot cross bun purists will tut and shake their heads but I go by what tastes good, not some arbitrary notion of culinary tradition. Besides M&S are putting apples and cranberries in their buns so I'll stick to my cardamom thank you very much.

Anyway! These slow-fermented Not Crossed but rather tasty buns are suitable for lazy Sunday breakfasts so I hope you'll give them a whirl, with or without the crosses, the spelt, the cardamom...

Not cross buns (adapted from the Leiths bible standard hot cross bun recipe)

Ingredients:

200ml milk, scalded (ie, brought to boiling point and then allowed to cool)
85g butter
300g refined spelt flour
150g wholemeal spelt flour
55g caster
1/2 tsp salt (1 tsp if using unsalted butter)
1 generous teaspoon mixed spice
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp cardamom (not strictly kosher but who cares)
20g fresh yeast or 7g sachet dried yeast
2 medium eggs, lightly beaten
100g sultanas

Method:

I slow ferment this dough overnight before baking off the buns/loaf. You can of course make them in a few hours but I find the slow fermentation adds a complex flavour and reputedly the slower the fermentation the more digestible the buns or loaf...

First, scald the milk along with the butter and cool to less than 50°C. Above 50°C and the heat will kill off the yeast so if you don't have a digital thermometer stick your finger in and the milk should feel lukewarm but not hot.

Meanwhile sift the flours, spice, salt and sugar in a large bowl. If using dried active yeast add it at this stage. If using fresh yeast, mix with 1 teaspoon of sugar in a small bowl. It should dissolve after a few minutes, and foam slightly - this is a sign the yeast is active. A good sign!

When the milk has cooled sufficiently, make a well in the centre of the dried ingredients and add the milk, butter, eggs, and (if using) fresh yeast.

Stir through and bring together with a large spoon. The great thing about spelt is it doesn't require much kneading. The dough should be quite sticky but simply stir through with your spoon for 5 minutes. You should see the dough become pliable and a little stretchy from the gluten strands forming.

Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, large enough to allow the dough to double in size, and then cover with oiled clingfilm and refrigerate for 12-18 hours, depending on when you're ready to bake the buns.

When the time comes to start shaping the dough into buns, take the dough out of the fridge and allow it to 'come to' temperature. Ie, let it warm up for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, soak the raisins in enough water to cover and drain the excess liquid off after 15 minutes.

Roll your dough out into a rough square or rectangle shape and scatter the raisins over. Bring the dough together like a parcel, sealing it off, and then just give it a couple of kneads to seal the dough and make sure the raisins haven't all clumped in one section of the dough.

Using a sharp un-serrated knife, slice the dough into 12-16 bun shapes of equal size. I weigh mine to 60g portions so they all bake evenly but you don't have to be as fastidious a fuss-pot as me.

Roll the buns into as round shapes as you can by gripping each bun in the palm of your hand, cupping your whole hand over it and then swirling around on your work surface in tight circles for a few seconds. This creates a tight;y structured bun and a round, even shape. I found I had too much dough to make buns for one tray to fit in my small oven so the remaining quarter of the dough I shaped into a mini loaf and baked after the buns were finished.

Place the shaped buns a couple of centimetres apart on the baking sheet and cover with a sheet of oiled clingfilm on top, allowing the buns to double in size in a warm place. This should take 30-40 minutes, but keep checking after 25 minutes. The buns will be ready to bake when you poke one and the imprint of your finger remains, ie. it doesn't spring back.

Finally, preheat the oven to 220°C. Brush each bun with a little milk - this will help to make a soft crust when the buns bake.

Place the baking sheet on an upper-middle shelf of the oven and turn the heat down to 200°C after 5 minutes, bake a further 15 minutes. Keep an eye on them so they don't burn. The buns will be done when they're golden brown, and sound hollow when you tap them. For the loaf allow an extra 10-15 minutes depending on the size of the loaf.

That's all there is to it. Freeze the buns or loaf for future use as they refresh really well in a 150°C oven for 10 minutes...

Kardemomme Snurrer, or Cardamom Rolls

I sometimes despair at the dearth of bakeries in London. It's not that they don't exist - the Nordic Bakery, Baker & Spice, Ottolenghi, Konditor & Cook, and Peyton & Byrne all spring to mind. But they're expensive and I object to spending £3.50 on something I can make for 35p. Instead of having a bakery on practically every street corner, European style, Londoners really have to look for their fresh bread, cakes and pastries. Which is why I bake rather then spend half my life hunting down baked goodies. The ubiquitous cinnamon roll, tasty though it is, has been done to death, so I've opted for a bun swirled with fragrant cardamom: make these rolls, serve them at brunch or afternoon tea and your friends will never abandon you

Dough

• 300g plain flour
• 300g strong white flour
• 50g golden caster sugar
• 300-400ml whole milk
• 1 medium egg
• 20g fresh yeast/ca.10g fast-action bread yeast
• 1 tsp freshly ground cardamom (much more aromatic than store-bought ground stuff)
• 1/2 tsp salt

Cardamom Filling:

• 75g softened butter (take the butter out of fridge 1 hour before)
• 35-50g golden caster sugar/light brown soft sugar (the latter gives a toffee-ish flavour)
• 1 tsp freshly ground cardamom
• 1 medium egg for glazing

Scald the milk, remove from the heat and pour into a jug/container with the butter to allow the butter to melt.

Sift the flour, salt, dried yeast (if using fresh, put this in a small bowl, add the sugar and stir - the fresh yeast will foam slightly if it's active), sugar and cardamom. Blend with a large spoon to distribute the ingredients. Add the fresh yeast if using

Beat the egg and add to the slightly cooled milk. Make sure the milk is no hotter than 37ºC(if you don't have a thermometer, this is blood temperature, or the temperature at which you can comfortably put your finger in for a minute - ie. not boiling hot!) when you add it to the yeast and flour mixture as this is the optimum temperature for yeast to thrive - above 50ºC and the yeast dies

Bring the dough together, knead on a lightly floured surface for 10 minutes until the dough feels smooth and springs back when poked

Place the dough in a lightly oiled large clear plastic bag and allow to rise for 45mins to 1 hour (you can also leave it overnight in the fridge)

Using a spatula, blend the filling ingredients until smooth and set aside. Take the dough out of the oiled bag and gently knock back for 30 seconds - keep the plastic bag for covering the dough during proving - then roll the dough into a rectangle, ca. 30cm x 45cm and start spreading the cardamom filling evenly across the surface. When you've finished this, roll up the rectangle and slice 2.5cm/1 inch thick pieces, place these on a lightly oiled baking tray or a tray with some baking parchment across. 

Prove the rolls, covered with the oiled plastic bag from earlier, for a further 30-45 minutes until they've doubled in size. Start pre-heating the oven to 220ºC after 20-25 minutes. Check after 30 minutes that the rolls stop springing back - poke the underside of one roll and if your finger leaves an indentation they've stopped proving. Once this happens, they're ready for baking, so beat the spare egg for glazing, and using a pastry brush to glaze the rolls. Bake on top shelf for 8-10 minutes, they should feel light, sound hollow and be a luscious golden colour. If you really want to gild the lily, sprinkle some caster sugar or light brown sugar on the surface of the rolls 2-3 mins before they finish baking...

Serve whilst warm with a cup of tea. Or freeze for future use... but I know which I would do