Showing posts with label plums. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plums. Show all posts

Sunday, 9 August 2009

Crimson Tide


crimson jam made with czar plums

We Johansens love to forage, fish and hunt. In fact we love everything about the outdoors - the thought of mountains, forests and fjords renders us somewhat misty-eyed and nostalgic for long summer days on the west coast of Norway. Few things in life make us happier than hiking up those mountains, scampering through dark forests and catching fish from fjords or lakes. It's a heavily romanticised Grieg-inspired idyll of course, but nature is by definition romantic

So far, so Peer Gynt. In truth we're not a family of avid hunters, but fishing and foraging are primal activities so deeply ingrained in our DNA that Papa Johansen is the keenest fisherman I know, whereas sadly I am a useless fart at anything aquatic except swimming and like to imagine that dropping crayfish pots in the fjord constitutes fishing, thus qualifying me as some sort of piscine goddess. This is a source of endless amusement to Papa J, along with the fact that I hate downhill skiing. It must be hard not having a son when you're the Last Of The Vikings

As for hunting, the one time I tried shooting animate objects was last September on a gamebird hunting weekend in Derbyshire. Hunting is divisive, you don't need an anthropologist telling you that but the ritual aspects of hunting, whether for the Inupiat in Alaska, the Sami in Northern Norway or for the Ainu in Japan are integral to their identities and how they conceptualise the world. We descend from hunters and gatherers and being a committed omnivore I don't have any principled objection to killing animals - if you want to eat meat or fish you must at some point in your life be prepared to kill it, brutal a notion though that may be

Anyway, enough lecturing. I confess that despite my support of hunting generally I felt a sense of relief those birds weren't shot out of the sky by my trigger-happy hand. The same can't be said about my lovely Croatian friend Kata who shot birds with so much gusto it frightened all the men of our party

We're only a few days away from the start of grouse season, but a less gruesome activity beckoned this weekend. The foraging and picking of summer fruit is a gentle summer activity and I had yet to do any this year. My Norwegian grandparents owned a fruit farm in western Norway so I grew up picking wild and cultivated strawberries, raspberries, currants and plums during summers spent on their farm with the looney aunts

Dad and I had been missing that favourite of summer pasttimes (not the aunts mind you), so when I was in Sussex this weekend to see Ma & Pa we investigated nearby PYO farms. Off we went on a muggy afternoon to Grange Farm in the quaint Sussex village of Funtington where we spent a happy hour picking plums and apples before the rain came crashing down:


Picking your own plums may not save that much money but we thoroughly enjoyed stomping through Grange Farm where they have hundreds of plum, apple and pear trees, not to mention row upon row of blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes, rhubarb and strawberry patches...they're delightfully organised these Grange farmers which appeals to my Germanic sense of organisation:




And sure enough the czar plums we picked were plump and juicy with a fantastic indigo skin:




here's me picking the czars, avoiding the wasps:




Discovery apples:




Sadly I only picked a few kilos of these delicious apples before the rain started:




Tart, crisp and aromatic - the perfect English apples:




The reason for this frenzy of fruit picking? I decided to make plum jam in aid of Great Ormond Street Children's Hospital and will be selling the jam along with cakes and cinnamon buns this coming Thursday at the UK Food Bloggers' Association food stall in Covent Garden's Real Food Market. Rejina of the fabulous food blog Gastrogeek very kindly invited me along to share the stall with her and she'll be donating her profits to Amnesty International so if you have a spare half hour in your lunch break or you're moseying around Covent Garden do swing by and help us raise money for two very good causes


Recipe for plum jam:




  • 2kg de-stoned plums
  • 375g fructose (fruit sugar)
  • pack of "jam" which is basically ascorbic acid and a bit of pectin, we buy it in Norway
Put your plums in a large pot over a medium heat, stir while the plums start to dissolve and cook. Make sure to stir fairly regularly so the plums don't catch on the bottom of the pan and burn, they will start to look like soup:




Bring to a boil, stir and bring back to the boil three times. My father swears by this method, I suspect because three has some ritual connotation for him. Take the pan off the heat, add the fruit sugar, stir really well to distribute the sugar and put back on the heat. Bring to the boil one more time, then add the magic "jam" (this isn't strictly necessary but it helps the jam set...plums are quite high in pectin anyway so just cook the jam as normal without this mystical Norwegian powder) Decant into sterilised jars, seal, and turn upside down until cool

As an addendum, we foraged these wild cherry plums on an old Roman road near Chichester:




And voila! Made them into jam too:




Papa Johansen insisted we pick wild cherry plums on our way back from Grange Farm, and thus we spent an hour shaking the plum tree down, collecting plums and getting stung by nettles whilst being drenched in the rain. Good family fun. Dad very kindly offered to help with the jam-making, although by the time we got round to starting the wild cherry plum batch at 7pm we had both run out of steam. Be warned, you have to cook the wild plums whole and skim out the kernels as they separate from the fruit. Below Papa J looks less than impressed at how long it took us to prepare the wild plums (we slit them along the middle to help the separation of kernel from flesh):




And there was no sympathy from Mama J: "It serves your Father right insisting on foraging those wild plums, he never appreciates how much work goes into jam-making"

I suspect he probably does, and hereby extend a big thank you to Papa J for all his help. What better way for Father and daughter to spend time together...

Tuesday, 16 June 2009

A Plum Job













Nearly a month has passed since I posted a note on baking here, an unintended hiatus of sorts. Between revising for exams, then sitting the verdamte things, an unexpected trip to Norway and one albatross of a PhD proposal looming on the horizon I've neglected all whisking and folding recently. Thankfully all the hard work has been mitigated with plenty of japes and frolics, so no need to indulge in spasms of self-pity. Just been a busy bee, that's all.

Anyway, earlier this spring a number of enquiries about gluten-free recipes arrived in my baking inbox, so I decided to test this plum+almond cake recipe yesterday for those who are coeliac or have a wheat-intolerance. It's a super easy and quick to prepare sponge, thus making it a perfect tea-time treat or served with ice cream manifests itself rather well as a dinner party dessert. The recipe is one I adapted from one I found on the Cook's Illustrated site, an awesome repository of recipes tested to the nth degree. You can't go wrong with their recipes, seriously - have a look. All recipes for a bona fide 4th July fiestanza can be found there: ribs, key lime pie, cornbread...

But I digress. What you don't eat of this cake at tea-time or after dinner, try for breakfast. In a moment of Marie Antoinette-esque hubris I abandoned the quotidien smoothie this morning for a generous slice of cake with a dollop of Greek yogurt and some leftover plum sauce. Ideally I would have been reading Wodehouse whilst scoffing such a delectable plum cake with aplomb, but settled for a scan of the news about Iran's nascent revolution.

Enough warbling, here's the recipe folks!

Plum+Almond Cake Ingredients:
  • 2 punnets of plums (I only used 1, and that wasn't enough, you wan't this to be plummy)
  • 3 tsp apricot jam (St.Dalfour is a tasty one, and is made with grape juice)
  • 2 tsp raspberry+rose cordial (see photo above)
  • 125g ground almonds
  • 125g self-raising gluten free flour
  • 250g caster sugar (light brown would also be good)
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 100g butter, softened
  • 200g half-fat sour cream
  • 1 large egg + 1 fat egg yolk
  • splash of vanilla
  • pinch of salt
Method:

Preheat oven to 180C. Butter and flour a 9 inch cake pan.

Prepare the plums first by halving them. In a large saucepan or frying pan place the apricot jam and cordial, along with a little water (Cook's Illustrated suggests brandy - I didn't have this, but give it a go if you do). Bring to a simmer and allow it to cook for 2-3 mins until syrupy. Add the plums cut-side down and cook a further 5 minutes, basting them with the juices so the tops cook too. Once they're cooked, remove with a slotted spoon and reserve the excess syrup for later.

In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar. In a separate bowl sift the flour, almonds, raising agent, salt. Beat the egg with the sour cream and vanilla in a cup.

Once the butter is creamed, add the egg mixture and dry mixture in increments, beating with an electric whisk if you have one. You want quite a dense batter for this cake to hold the plums in suspension.

Spoon the batter into your cake pan, bake on the middle oven shelf for 45-50 minutes and check it's cooked through by inserting a skewer. It should come out with crumbs, not wet batter.

Allow the cake to cool, then eat with gluttonous abandon

Wednesday, 24 December 2008

God Jul...



Or for those not fluent in Norwegian:  Merry Christmas!

Santa's arrived, we've had some delicious panettone for breakfast and all is right with the world. It occurred to me that nary a day's gone by this December when I haven't cooked or baked a dish using the following spices:
  • cinnamon
  • cardamom
  • nutmeg
  • cloves
And I hope to continue doing so into the new year...It's been wonderful re-discovering cloves, a pungent, rather medicinal spice integral to all Scandinavian and Germanic Christmas baking. But why shouldn't one use it throughout the year - in marinades when roasting pork, in cakes and cookies, or - as winter seems to be particularly fierce this year - in hot drinks? By mid-January I'll invariably grow bored of cloves but for the time being it's high on my list of ingredients.

Anyway, this family's been feasting, thankfully not just on cloves, in fact today the beloved waffle iron made an appearance - I've posted about Norwegian waffles before, and I'll probably do so again. Suffice to say we're fans of the humble waffle, and the recipe I posted in July was today given a yuletide boost by adding the aforementioned spices to the batter. Despite waxing lyrical about cloves, I erred on the side of caution and used only a pinch whilst adding double the cardamom, but you choose which you prefer. 


Waffles eaten warm with a dollop of brandy cream and some plum compote really is Christmas bliss...God Jul, as we say in Scandiland!

Tuesday, 16 December 2008

A Festive Plum and Gingerbread Dessert



This is what happens when one has a hankering for something sweet, and there's no chocolate to reach for! 

I had the following ingredients:
  • Pepperkaker, or gingerbread as they're known in English 
  • Plum compote from my grandparents' farm
  • Plain yoghurt and a tub of Quark
The pepperkaker, I'm sorry to admit, are not homemade but from Ikea. Nothing wrong with Ikea, in fact these spicy cookies are delightfully crisp and moreish, but really if one's going to blog about baking well there should be some baking involved.

But if you happen to have an abundance of cookies in your larder this yuletide season, try this devilishly simple dessert:

All you do is combine equal quantities of yoghurt and quark, stir them together really well to get rid of any lumps.

Place this in a glass, either a pretty martini one as I did (see photo) or in any small cup/glass you have.

Then swirl some plum compote on top, or a compote of your choice - apple, pear, cherry or blueberry would all be excellent I reckon - then crush the gingerbread, sprinkle on top and voila! you've made the easiest, tastiest little dessert this Christmas...

Friday, 12 September 2008

Plums galore

Well, this was certainly a longer than anticipated hiatus from blogging! After an unexpected trip to Norway, I arrived back in London to autumnal greyness and gloom. Actually, that's not strictly true - it's been lovely here. Crisp, cool days with glimmers of sun, and the shops are full of the best autumnal produce - I absolutely love the myriad of plums available this time of year, from Damsons to Greengages, and that old favourite Victoria. There's so much you can do with these little gems, and frankly they're much more interesting than apricots, which so many people obsess about...can't quite see why, apricots are often bland, mushy and weakly perfumed with an indifferent aroma. Make jam from apricots I say, or dry them for use in cereal. Plums, clearly the superior fruit, are the way to go this September! 

And what better way to celebrate these babies than with a fabulous German-inspired 'pflaumkuchen', or plum cake if you will. The ideal way to treat yourself and friends at tea time, this cake lasts for several days. Serve this warm as a naughty pudding if you can't squeeze in an afternoon tea break :-)

Be generous with the plums, the fruitiness of this cake is what makes it so sublime

Ingredients
  • 12-14 plums, quartered
  • 200g butter, melted
  • 170g caster sugar
  • 150g self-raising flour
  • 150g ground almonds
  • 125g plain, unsweetened yoghurt
  • 4 medium eggs
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon - or indeed any spice you have a predilection for! Orange zest also goes v.well with this...
  • handful of slivered almonds or coarsely chopped hazelnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 180 ºC. Lightly grease a 24cm round cake tin

Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large mixing bowl until pale and fluffy. Add the dry ingredients and stir through with a large metal spoon a few times. Then pour the melted butter around the perimeter of the bowl (stops the butter from sinking into a blob at the bottom of the bowl), and fold through, scraping the sides of the bowl to incorporate as much of the butter as possible. Then add your yoghurt and give the mixture a few more stirs until it looks even.

Don't worry if there are pockets of flour bobbing about, you want to keep as much of the air from the whisked eggs as possible, so the plum cake is light and fluffy!

Spoon the cake batter into the round cake tin, and then add the plums, lightly pushing them down into the batter. They will sink slightly during the baking process so don't bother arranging them too much...

Scatter the nuts on top if you're using them, and then bake on the central shelf of the oven for 45mins-1 hour. The cake will look a little underdone initially, so it's worth checking with a skewer for doneness.  The skewer should come out clean, with no uncooked cake batter on it.

When the cake is baked, allow to cool on a wire rack for 10-15 minutes. Delicious served warm, with a dollop or three of either sour cream, vanilla custard or (healthier option, and not any worse for it!) Greek yoghurt...mmm!